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Spring in Africa
- To: The armchair travellers <za@wizzy.com>
- Subject: Spring in Africa
- From: Andy Rabagliati <andyr@wizzy.com>
- Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 06:58:12 +0200
Folks,
Last weekend I took my bike a few hours north, to the area known as
Namaqualand. It is not the desert that Namibia is, but it is dry.
There is a cold current that runs up the west coast, that precipitates
any rain coming in from the west before it hits the land.
On this sandy soil a fragile ecosystem has developed - because it
is really only sand underneath. However, in the spring (as it now is)
this variety of plants explodes as a carpet of flowers. It seems
extraordinary that they should devote so much energy to producing
these quite large flowers.
Flowering plants arrived very late on this planet - well after the
animal kingdom - so maybe their heyday is yet to come.
Also in this area is a large nuclear power station, which I also
visited. Frustratingly, their visitor centre is closed on weekends -
a throwback to South Africas British heritage. Shops close at 6 or
so, supermarkets at 9PM. And they are only open for a half-day on
Saturday - they need their weekends too ..
The visitor centre did have some large horned animal grazing its
lawn though.
The towns I went into spoke Africaanse almost exclusively,
(white, colored, black) though they spoke English to me.
The Non-Aligned Movement met in Durban this week - a collection of
African nations trying to sort out the mess that was Zaire.
We have to get past the undistinguished past of Zaire, with an almost
unbroken history of exploitation, and look at its huge mineral
wealth, the obvious prize everyone is grabbing for. They are not
grabbing the copper - they are grabbing the tax base it represents.
Large multinationals are the only ones who will make the investment
to get the returns, so the government has to appear stable enough
to be able to ask for taxes.
Large multinationals are wary today of their image - where before
they might turn a blind eye, now (I hope) they would prefer to
close the mines for a while rather than pay a government
that steals the tax revenue and suppresses the population.
Surrounding countries gawped in amazement last year when Kabila
simply walked from the east to the west of Zaire straight into
the presidential seat. So he is being tested now .. Angola is
still full of disorganised fighting units left over from the
war with South Africa. Zimbabwe, the only country with two cents
to rub together, is pitching in on the side of Kabila, an old
friend of Mugabes. Rwanda and Uganda, the well organised Tutsi
kingmakers that helped Kabila into power, are his foes again,
though they deny involvement.
South Africa, with an economy ten times the size of the rest put
together, holds the moral high ground courtesy of Madiba - our
president Nelson Mandela. Nobody has any solutions, however.
Asking people to lay down their arms and negotiate is like
playing a violin in an earthquake.
No, I don't have any solutions either. Just don't pay taxes :-)
Cheers, Andy!
PS. Valentin, our Hungarian friend, had to get a South African
Drivers licence yesterday. The Place of Issue of his passport was
listed as "White".
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